Trellis, part of the Four Corners Tavern Group, recently opened in Lincoln Park after displacing Gaslight. While a neighborhood bar, which happens to serve excellent food, Trellis is also worth the journey for those that don’t live in the area. The space is long and narrow, but the layout optimizes room for diners and bar patrons alike. A bar with plush bar chairs line the left side of the restaurant, and tables with booth seating line the right. Colors are warm and inviting, with dark purples and grays accenting the mix of light and dark woods. Large windows and exposed duct-work give the space a modern, industrial feel.
While the dinner menu is limited, every item is executed perfectly. Trellis offers a daily fresh selection of oysters, including a choice of either east or west coast bivalve varieties. While some unfortunately had pieces of residue or shell in them, they were fresh, meaty and delicious, only needing a squeeze of lemon. The taleggio arancini were rich and comforting, the sweetness of the pureed butternut squash offsetting the richness of the taleggio. Sage walnut oil brought the whole dish together. The chilled roasted carrots & beets worked in perfect harmony with the candied pecans and balsamic and ricotta salata, my favorite dish of the evening. The blood oranges and Hidden Springs feta in the kale & radicchio salad gave it a nice brightness and salty kick.
On the heartier side of the menu, the venison meatballs and wild mushrooms, served atop tagliatelle pasta, were flavorful and nicely composed. While listed under “Smalls” on the menu, this dish can easily be an entrée, or split amongst a few people as an appetizer. The house ground burger, with au Poivre cheese and bacon, served between a potato bun with frites, was also a winner.
While all of the desserts sounded divine, including an apple walnut crostata and a warm chocolate brownie, we went with a trio of the chef’s selection gelato. On our visit, the selections were maple yogurt, which had the richness, tartness, and thickness of Greek yogurt; eggnog, which was fluffy and light and featured a fresh vanilla bean flavor; and a superb chocolate caramel.
The cocktail list features hand crafted seasonal offerings, and the wine list is much more extensive and thoughtful than a typical bar, with over 100 unique offerings. The typical craft beers can be found here, as well. Service is friendly, knowledgeable, and not overbearing.
If you are in the neighborhood, definitely check out Trellis. And, if you are not, consider planning a visit for the warm, inviting ambiance, a great drink, and delicious food.
2426 North Racine
Chicago, IL 60614